Leopard gecko care sheet
In this Leopard gecko caresheet we will discuss why -out of all the pet lizards one could acquire, the best lizard
suited for the beginner just might be the Leopard.
Why you say?
Well for starters, they do not require a UVB light. They are nocturnal
so most of their day is spent sleeping or hiding.
They also tame a little easier than other pet lizards. No pet lizard
comes pre-tamed, but the "Leo" probably comes the closest.
Find out how to create some gecko decor to enhance your lizard cage.
They reach a size of six to 10 inches long, and are mainly terrestrial,
so this makes leopard gecko housing a little easier than if you had a pet iguana.
In need of some gecko gifts? Stop by the Lizard Store.
Watch this video on the very popular
Leopard gecko.
Leopard gecko housing
Male leopard geckos should never be housed in the same cage,
they tend to fight and be territorial(all male lizards tend to be like this).
A 20 gallon tank should be the minimum for what you provide one adult
Leopard, the more space -the happier your pet lizard is going to be.
The cage should provide two hides, one on the hot side and one on the cool.
How about providing something for your gecko on which to climb -check out the Fake tree project page.
You should provide a temperature gradient, which can easily be obtained by putting one heat lamp on just one side of the cage.
For heat, a 60 to 75 W bulb should be able to get your temps
to where they need to be,-around 83 to 89° for daytime.
Temps can safely fall to around 68° for nighttime.
The hide that's on the cool side should be misted with water
once a day, this is done to provide a humid area for the Leopard gecko
so they can more easily shed their skin.
As far as a substrate, paper towels or newspaper are the easiest and cheapest
solution. Other products like sand or crushed walnut shells can be
mistakenly eaten by the Leopard and then cause impaction.
Make sure the cage is kept off of the floor as in -elevated
and provide a screen top lid for safety.
food and water
The Leopard gecko diet consists of crickets, silkworms, butterworms and super worms.
Whatever you get you need to gut load their insects at least 24 hours
before your pet lizard eats them. This is done by having the insects
feast on nutritious foods so that your pet lizard will benefit from a healthy bug.
For information on caring for babies check out the page on
baby leopard geckos.
The insect you choose(a variety is best) should be smaller than
the leopard gecko's mouth. Crickets are fine, but make sure
you either remove them from the cage after your pet lizard is done,
or pull its legs off on one side. This is done to make sure the crickets don't bite
your Leo.
You need to provide a vitamin mineral calcium supplement in the form of
either coating the insects with it or providing a shallow bowl with the
supplement in it. Babies and juveniles need this every other day,
while adults should have this provided at least twice a week.
One fairly important thing is -while handling your Leopard gecko
never pick it up by its tail, as the Leopard gecko is one of those lizards
that has a defense mechanism where it drops its tail if it feels threatened.
The tale will grow back, but it won't be nearly as colorful and brilliant
as the original.
I hope the above Leopard gecko information has been usefull. If you've chosen the Leopard as the pet lizard for you
then be sure and read multiple different care sheets, and read
a book or two on this fascinating lizard.
Do you have some care tips for leopard geckos ?
Do you have some general care tips or an entertaining story about leopard geckos? Share it!
What Other Visitors Have Said
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