Home
Fake rock video 1
Fake Rock video 2
Fake rock video 3
FakeRockwall beginner
FakeRockwall complex
Fake rock intermediate
Bearded Dragon Care
Iguana care
Lep.Gecko Care
Lizard Care Sheets
Contact
How to Build a Castle
Reptile facts
Build Stonehenge
14 ft bearded dragon
FAQ
Rock City!
Other peeps projects
Dragon -short film
Build a haunted house
Grand Canyon sketch
Dragon art
Gecko art
Landscape art
Build a waterfall
Medieval Castle
Privacy Policy

[?] Subscribe To This Site

XML RSS
Add to Google
Add to My Yahoo!
Add to My MSN
Subscribe with Bloglines

 

Leopard gecko care sheet

Leopard geckos

In this Leopard gecko caresheet we will discuss why -out of all the pet lizards one could acquire, the best lizard suited for the beginner just might be the Leopard.

Why you say?

Well for starters, they do not require a UVB light. They are nocturnal so most of their day is spent sleeping or hiding.

They also tame a little easier than other pet lizards. No pet lizard comes pre-tamed, but the "Leo" probably comes the closest.

They reach a size of six to 10 inches long, and are mainly terrestrial, so this makes leopard gecko housing a little easier than if you had a pet iguana.

Watch this video on the very popular Leopard gecko.

Leopard gecko housing

Male leopard geckos should never be housed in the same cage, they tend to fight and be territorial(all male lizards tend to be like this).

A 20 gallon tank should be the minimum for what you provide one adult Leopard, the more space -the happier your pet lizard is going to be.

The cage should provide two hides, one on the hot side and one on the cool. You should provide a temperature gradient, which can easily be obtained by putting one heat lamp on just one side of the cage.

For heat, a 60 to 75 W bulb should be able to get your temps to where they need to be,-around 83 to 89° for daytime. Temps can safely fall to around 68° for nighttime.

The hide that's on the cool side should be misted with water once a day, this is done to provide a humid area for the Leopard gecko so they can more easily shed their skin.

As far as a substrate, paper towels or newspaper are the easiest and cheapest solution. Other products like sand or crushed walnut shells can be mistakenly eaten by the Leopard and then cause impaction.

Make sure the cage is kept off of the floor as in -elevated and provide a screen top lid for safety.

food and water

The Leopard gecko diet consists of crickets, silkworms, butterworms and super worms. Whatever you get you need to gut load their insects at least 24 hours before your pet lizard eats them. This is done by having the insects feast on nutritious foods so that your pet lizard will benefit from a healthy bug.

For information on caring for babies check out the page on baby leopard geckos.

Leopard gecko eats a cricket The insect you choose(a variety is best) should be smaller than the leopard gecko's mouth. Crickets are fine, but make sure you either remove them from the cage after your pet lizard is done, or pull its legs off on one side. This is done to make sure the crickets don't bite your Leo.

You need to provide a vitamin mineral calcium supplement in the form of either coating the insects with it or providing a shallow bowl with the supplement in it. Babies and juveniles need this every other day, while adults should have this provided at least twice a week.

One fairly important thing is -while handling your Leopard gecko never pick it up by its tail, as the Leopard gecko is one of those lizards that has a defense mechanism where it drops its tail if it feels threatened.

The tale will grow back, but it won't be nearly as colorful and brilliant as the original.

I hope the above Leopard gecko information has been usefull. If you've chosen the Leopard as the pet lizard for you then be sure and read multiple different care sheets, and read a book or two on this fascinating lizard.


footer for Leopard gecko page